Simple Steps To Keep Your Truck Tires From Eating Your Profits Alive

We know tires are expensive. We also know most drivers mean to keep up with their tire maintenance programs, but driving often gets in the way. Until you drop a tread, or pick-up a bolt, it's easy to forget about your tires. Problem is, tires are very unforgiving, and will eat up your profits any chance they get. Don't let them. Here's how.

Any tire showing damage is trying to tell you something. You might need an alignment if you see certain patterns, so knowing which tire patterns to look for helps you identify the problem. Tire sites usually have a chart on types of damage to expect with each problem.

Keep tires of the same diameter together (New with new. Used with used). If not, you end up with one tire skipping and scraping the road because it isn't the same size. Premature wear isn't pretty.

Know when to replace/retread your tires. Minimum legal depth is 4/32" on the steer and 2/32" on others. Tires wear at approximately 1/32" per 13-14,000 miles. Measure your treads now, and mark their expected replacement dates based on your average mileage. Problem solved.

Service those bearings and kingpins. This WILL make your tires wear better.

Always install new tires - not retreads, on your steering axles. Better safe than sorry when it comes to steering gear.

Make sure your inflation is correct for your load.Underinflated tires, especially under load, will chew tires quickly.

Adjust pressures for cold climates you are driving in. If you're coming from a warmer area, when you hit cold weather areas the air in your tires contracts, and suddenly you're running underinflated. Check your pressures.

Damaged, improperly balanced wheels will damage tires.Look over all of your wheels for signs of damage - every trip.

Keep radials with radials, and bias ply with bias ply. Don't mix them, or you will see a shorter tire life.

Tires do have a maintenance schedule. Whether you're a single O/O, or have a fleet of trucks, have a plan for replacement and/or repair with an escrow fund and based on mileage and you'll keep those tires from eating your profits alive.

Protect Your Investment. Winterize your Rig

It's that time of year, yet again - time to winterize your rig. And while the below is by no means a comprehensive list, it is a good way to start your winterization plan.

One of the few things typically taken care of for you is your fuel blend. You already know that your truck can be harder to start in winter, and to combat this, fuels are blended with 1D and 2D types of diesel for faster ignition. In spite of that, you'll still want to check the cetane number (CN). The higher the better in winter, as it's a measure of how quickly the fuel ignites. That said, let's get to the list you do have to worry about:

Hoses, radiator and belts - In the warm months, rubber and plastic might work perfectly well, but cold weather will test all of these components. Before it gets cold, check for small cracks, rub marks or bulges that can lead to a failure down the line. It may not happen today, but parts will fail at the least convenient moment, and keep you from making money. Change them if they look even the slightest bit suspicious.

Anti-freeze - Have your anti-freeze tested before the winter sets in. You need it to be at the best possible freeze point for the entire season. If you don't remember the last time you had it changed, it's probably time.

Batteries - When was the last time you had your batteries tested? If your batteries are between 4 and 6 years old, you need to consider replacing them before the season even begins. If they're younger than that, you still need to have them tested - under load.

Engine components - Check to see what type of equipment you have to make your rig start easier in the colder climates. If you have a block heater, intake pre-heats or glow plugs; make sure they are functioning correctly before you really need them.

Anti-gelling additives - As the name implies, this keeps your fuel from gelling in the cold temperatures. Use them.

Fuel/water separator - keeping water out of your fuel is always a good idea, but even more critical in the winter when it can freeze a fuel line. If you don't have one, get a fuel water separator for your rig. Minimize the amount of condensation that can collect by fuelling late in the day, if possible.

Air Dryers - Your break systems are designed to use dry air. In freezing temperatures, water/fluids can create an ice blockage and prevent your breaks from functioning. Air dryers help prevent that from happening. The air dryer sits between compressor and the wet tank, and should have the filter changed before the winter begins. Don't forget to drain your reservoirs periodically, as well.

Heating - When you check the in-cab heat systems, or open the valve - in some older trucks; change your in-cab filter, as well. You wouldn't believe what gets stuck in those filters over time. This contributes to slow cabin air, and can make it less comfortable for you in the colder climates.

Wiring - Like your battery, wiring is critically important to monitor. Rubbing, and exposure are two things that are tough on your wiring. Check all the areas you can for damage. Anywhere wiring touches another component is where you need to heavily scrutinize.

Sometimes you can do all of the above and still run into trouble on the road. You need prepare for this, as well. Keep extra blankets, water, food and survival supplies in your truck at all times. It takes up some precious room, but when you need it, it's well worth the space.

Keep rolling. Keep safe.

Are You Really Prepared For The Economic Upturn?

It’s coming to a trucking business near you. You’ve felt it creeping up on you for any number of months, but now it seems like it’s right in your face. The economic upturn is going to make your life a wreck if you’re not prepared.

So what’s the big deal about the economic upturn in the trucking industry? Remember those days when you had to cut back, and scrape for loads? Remember all the maintenance you had to let go until you could afford it, or the equipment you didn’t buy because it didn’t make sense at the time? You lost money then, and now you’ll lose more money if you’re not prepared to take advantage of the opportunities available.

What’s going to hold you back? Unless you kept and maintained all of your equipment and drivers from 2010, you’re probably going to be lacking the resources to tackle all the loads you can. The good news is that you’re not the only one. The bad news is that you’ve got some catching up to do. Fortunately, everyone else is in the middle of getting caught up, as well. The longer you put it off, the less revenue you’re going to be bringing in later.

Perform maintenance

Where to start? Maintenance and updates are always the beginning. Bring your existing equipment up to spec, and update how you track your maintenance, your drivers and loads. Without proper maintenance, your fleet dies a lingering, costly death. Some states won’t even let you across their border without certain equipment, so there’s real incentive to make that maintenance happen.

Without proper tracking of your field assets, you have no way to determine where your potentially blossoming profits are spent. Additionally, before you can even consider new equipment, you have to have a way to make sure your existing equipment is being used in the most efficient manner possible. Adding equipment doesn’t justadd capacity, it adds maintenance and man hours.

Update your equipment

The industry, and electronics have improved dramatically since 2010. Electronic logging makes tracking HOS easier, as well as determining when your drivers need to rest. Other computer and phone applications make it easier to find the cheapest diesel in an area, certified CAT scales and rest stops on the road. Look into these if you’re not using them. Additionally, look for an expense tracking software suite. You need to be able to drill down to any expense, anywhere in your fleet.

Fifth Wheel Maintenance

OK, so how many of you are thinking about your fifth wheel right now? Probably not many, right? Well like everything else on your truck, it needs maintenance. Which means you also probably need a checklist to do it right. Everyone loves a checklist, and we've got you covered. 1)      First, you're going to need to clean the gunk off that fifth wheel. Some folks go so far as to steam clean it; others simply scrape and clean it with a brush and solvent. You should know that it is recommended that you steam clean not only the top plate, but the jaws and legs, as well. 2)      Next you're going to inspect the upper area and edges for any damage. This can simply be wear and tear, or something more excessive - like missing parts or cracks. You're going to need to find a straight edge, too, because you've got to check the flatness of the fifth wheel. Cracks are obviously bad, as well. Finding them can be tricky if you're not steam cleaning the fifth wheel, but if you check underneath it, you can see any grease making its way through a crack. 3)      Look at the jaw area. Is there any damage, or excessive wear? You should have a test pin from your manufacturer. You're going to use this to engage the locking mechanism. Check the release handle, as well. This needs to be straight and secure. Look for any missing parts. Adjust the locking mechanism. 4)      You'll want to examine the bracket pins and legs for any type of damage (slack, wear or cracks). 5)      Check those Zerks. Obviously, grease fittings should be intact and unclogged. 6)      This is the point where you're going to need the square. Review the flatness of the bolster plate, as well as the kingpin. You're looking for any deformities in either one. No one likes it, but when you find damage in either one, you're going to need to replace it. 7)      Check your kingpin for wear, as well. You're going to need a kingpin gauge for this.  8)      Now that you've made it through the inspection, hopefully without needing to replace anything, it's time to look at the necessary maintenance. First, lubricate the jaw and locking mechanism. You're going to do this with a silicone based spray lube, or some other light oil. 9)      Let's give the zerks something to do now. You're going to use the grease gun for the bracket pin zerks to lube the surfaces above the pin. 10)   Now for the top plate. While many drivers and mechanics apply high quality grease all over the fifth wheel, you only need to grease the rear part, as the action of connecting a trailer will apply the grease to the rest of the fifth wheel. Note: Not all of these steps apply if you have a fifth wheel with a Teflon disc. The disc is the lubricant.

How Are Your Driving Skills At 100+ Miles Per Hour?

It’s cold and absurdly early on this Las Vegas morning, but 30+ people couldn't be happier. Not just because it’s Vegas, but because East Coast Truck and Trailer Sales is hosting their Richard Petty Driving Experience again. If you’ve never been, the Richard Petty Driving Experience is a thrill ride you control - starting at 100+ mph!

Every year, the folks at ECTTS ask a number of their friends and customers to come out for the driving experience of a lifetime. This is a chance to drive a car as fast as you can – without any fear whatsoever of a ticket. In fact, the faster the better! So much so, we keep track of the stats. 

The day starts with a facility overview of Las Vegas Motor Speedway. There’s roughly 1,500 acres to the Las Vegas Motor Speedway, consisting of over 10 tracks.  There’s the 1/2 mile World of Outlaws dirt track, the quarter mile NHRA drag racing facility known as “The Strip” and the 3/8 mile “Bullring”, which is the home track of NASCAR superstars Kurt and Kyle Busch as well as Brendan Gaughan – just to name a few.

But before you’re allowed to put a 600+ HP car through its paces, you have to go through safety and instruction and in-car/on-track training. This isn’t just a formality if you’re driving these beasts, this is absolutely necessary. You need to know how the brute you’re going to be doing your best to control will handle in a curve, or “out of the groove.” You’ll hear from the instructors/drivers just what you’re going to feel, and at what speed. They know these finely-tuned monsters; they drive them every day.

Now it’s your turn at the wheel; right? Well, first you’ll be taken on a ride-along to get a feel for the track, and experience the car “at speed.” You get to see what it feels like to take a curve as fast as possible without slamming into a wall. Then you get to feel the acceleration push you into the seat – when you’re already doing over 100 mph! You’ll amusedly remember when you used to get a thrill punching the accelerator on the family sedan to pass a sluggish truck. And this is just the instructional phase.

“OK, this should be easy”, you convince yourself, as you climb into the driver’s seat. What you don’t understand – until you try it for yourself, is that the instructor made it look easy because of their experience. For you, getting this race car up to something even close to 130 mph is taking some work. Not that the car won’t do it, but because you’re having a tough time getting up the nerve to go much faster. Way too soon, this thrill ride is over, but you get a chance to see just how much bravado you had. After it’s all over, you get a packet that includes a time sheet with a breakdown of every lap you drove on the track.

Finally, at the end of the day, ECTTS holds a dinner for their customers, friends, and employees. The food’s good, but the stories and laughter are even better. Let’s face it, half the fun of this type of outing is comparing how you did with the rest of the guests. The only problem lies with the inevitable request to see the hard copy of your exploits, to confirm those “enhanced” tales of the track. Chris Kelly, one of our customers, posted this year’s top speed at 141 mph! We’ll keep the lowest speed to ourselves, so as to keep the embarrassment to a minimum.  As we said earlier, we do keep track of the stats.

Keep Your Diesel Particulate Filter From Dying an Early Death

You’re 25 miles out of the truck stop; settling into the long haul, and then the regen warning light comes on - again!You know you just did a parked regeneration to clear the diesel particulate filter yesterday, and you’ve been driving this rig at speed today, so shouldn’t the filter be clean? Well, probably not. Here’s why:

• Unless you’re running a disposable filter system, which are a must in the mining industry and some off-road equipment, the DPF is probably still clogged, but not with soot. The DPF works by trapping soot and other particulates in a network of cells before releasing the smaller gasses through the pores in the filter structure (usually cordierite or silicon carbide). The DPF, like any filter, eventually gets clogged with this material. Unlike other filters, this filter can usually be easily cleared – either while you’re on the road, or parked, by simply heating the filter to the point where the soot burns off to become gasses that pass through the filter. The problem arises when other particles besides soot become trapped in the filter. While hydrocarbons burn, metals and other contaminates from oils in the exhaust don’t burn off at the temperatures used for regeneration, so you end up with a clogged filter – even though you’ve just done yet another regen.

• Why does this happen? The heat from the regen can cause the metal particles to simply fuse into solid masses (sintering), and like the metals, the non-soot particles aren’t going to burn off either. In some cases the filter itself is damaged by the heat being created by the regen. As regeneration happens at temperatures around 850 to 1100 degrees Fahrenheit, and damage happens to some filters at 1200 degrees, the range between clean and damaged can be fairly narrow.

•When the filter becomes clogged with metals and ash; from burning contaminates, it creates high backpressure and triggers a warning on the dash that gets progressively more severe until the truck computer finally throttles back the power – in some cases severely. Filters that become substantially clogged with ash go through what’s called compacting, which can cause filter and engine damage, if not corrected quickly. Overriding the regen causes this compaction. To avoid those consequences, regen every time, on time. Note that the filter will still eventually become clogged with particles other than soot. So what’s the solution? It’s time to have the filter professionally cleaned, as opposed to just clearing the soot.

• Sometimes known as de-ashing, the filter cleaning process begins with an inspection, and then moves through the steps of testing, pneumatic cleaning, thermal regeneration (about 12 hours) and a final air flow test. At the end of the cleaning the air flow test will tell whether it passes for continued use, or needs to be replaced. How often you regen, vs. letting your filter compact with particulates and ash, can greatly affect the usable life of your filter. Similarly, having your filter removed and cleaned regularly increases its lifetime, so this step should be an important part of your regular maintenance schedule.

• Finally, this is not a do-it-yourself job you want to tackle. Unless you have the proper equipment, and knowledge, it will just end up being a very expensive lesson in what not to do yourself. Dealerships and service centers nationwide offer DPF cleaning services; take advantage of it on a regular basis to keep your filter and engine operating at its best.

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